The short answer
The best tree for any Scottish site is the one that suits its soil, drainage, exposure and space. Dependable native choices for most of Scotland are rowan, hawthorn, holly, bird cherry, downy birch, alder, Scots pine and sessile oak.
• Wet ground: alder, downy birch, bird cherry, bay willow
• Exposed or coastal: Scots pine, rowan, hawthorn, aspen, Swedish whitebeam
• Small gardens: rowan, crab apple, hazel, hawthorn, serviceberry, juniper
Most failed trees were either wrong for the ground or left to fend for themselves after planting. In the west of Scotland, with heavy clay, high rainfall and wind, species choice matters more than almost anywhere in the UK.
How to choose the right tree
Start with the site, not the tree. Check these four things before you look at flowers or autumn colour.
1. Summer wetness. Waterlogging while a tree is in leaf is what kills it.
2. Exposure & Sun. Open, windy sites suit pioneer trees such as birch, Scots pine, rowan, aspen, willow, alder and hawthorn. More sheltered sites suit beech, yew, holly, lime and hornbeam. Yew, Holly and Hornbeam will tolerate varying degrees of shade.
3. Space. Check mature size against buildings, drains, wires and boundaries.
4. Soil. Rowan, whitebeam and wild cherry can be extremely sensitive to poor soil aeration. Keep them off heavy, compacted or waterlogged ground.
The west of Scotland is far wetter than the east, so waterlogging tolerance matters more in the west and drought tolerance more in the east and in paved sites. For native species, ask your nursery for Scottish or northern seed origin. Native trees are the backbone of many gardens, but 100% native is not automatically best for biodiversity or resilience. Well-chosen non-native trees with low invasion risk add diversity and climate resilience.
The best native trees for Scotland
• Rowan (Sorbus aucuparia), to 22m. Very wind-hardy; needs free-draining soil. Small gardens, birds.
• Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna), to 12m. Drought tolerant, coastal, good for pollinators and birds. Slow to establish, so be patient in the first few years.
• Holly (Ilex aquifolium), to 25m. Evergreen, shade and drought tolerant, coastal.
• Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris), to 40m. Poor, acid, sandy or rocky ground; exposed and coastal sites.
• Sessile oak (Quercus petraea), to 35m. Large gardens and parks on free-draining ground.
• Pedunculate oak (Quercus robur), to 35m. Parks and estates with plenty of space.
• Downy birch (Betula pubescens), to 20m. Wet ground and open sites.
• Silver birch (Betula pendula), typically 15m. Light, sandy, acid soils in the open.
• Common alder (Alnus glutinosa), to 40m. Riversides, wet hollows, heavy clay.
• Bird cherry (Prunus padus), to 18m. Tolerates slightly damp ground.
• Wild cherry or gean (Prunus avium), to 25m. Spring blossom on well-aerated soil.
• Aspen (Populus tremula), to 40m. Exposed, windy and coastal sites; suckers freely.
• Goat willow and bay willow (Salix caprea, S. pentandra), 15 to 18m. Fast cover; bay willow for wet ground only.
• Small-leaved lime (Tilia cordata), to 30m. Parks and coastal sites; excellent for bees.
• Yew (Taxus baccata), to 18m. Dry shade, slow evergreen structure.
• Crab apple (Malus sylvestris), to 7m. Small gardens, pollinators.
• Hazel (Corylus avellana), to 6m. Small gardens, understorey, coppice.
• Juniper (Juniperus communis), usually under 10m. Small, exposed sites.
Bear in mind that these heights are maximums, and many will not reach this height in a garden environment.
Best trees for gardens, streets and developments
In towns, rooting space, compaction, hard surfaces and road salt often matter more than climate. These proven non-natives fill gaps the native list cannot.
• Hornbeam (Carpinus betulus), to 20m. Paved sites; shade tolerant.
• Swedish whitebeam (Sorbus intermedia), to 15m. Coastal, paved and salt tolerant; small gardens.
• Italian alder (Alnus cordata), 20 to 25m. Happy in wet ground.
• Disease-resistant elms (Ulmus cultivars). Streets and coastal sites.
• Serviceberry (Amelanchier lamarckii), to 10m. Small gardens.
On development sites, NPF4 Policy 6 supports proposals that “enhance, expand and improve woodland and tree cover” and requires new planting to be “integrated into the design”. A tree that dies in year three does nothing for a biodiversity case.
When and how to plant a tree
Plant between November and March while trees are dormant, avoiding frozen or waterlogged ground. Bare-root trees are cheapest and establish well; rootballed and container trees cost more but give instant height. Container trees can go in at other times but need far more summer watering.
1. Clear a circle about 1m across of all grass and weeds.
2. Dig a wide, shallow pit, no deeper than the roots. Break up the sides on clay.
3. Set the root flare, where the trunk widens into the roots, at or just above soil level. Never deeper.
4. Backfill with the dug soil and firm gently.
5. Stake and strap about one third of the way up the tree.
6. Mulch the cleared circle, keeping mulch off the stem.
7. Guard against rabbits and deer where needed, and water in.
8. Deep watering once a month, April to September, for the first three years.
7. Adjust stakes/ties annually, and remove after year 3.
The most common mistakes
1. Planting too deep. This is the mistake I see most often. A buried root flare leads to slow decline years later.
2. Leaving stakes and straps on too long. Ties left on cut into the bark and throttle the tree. Check them each spring and remove stakes once the tree is stable, usually after one or two seasons.
3. Letting the rootstock take over. Many ornamental trees are grafted onto a vigorous rootstock. Shoots from below the graft, if not removed, can outgrow the cultivar until the rootstock species is huge and dominant. Cut suckers off as soon as they appear.
4. Grass allowed to grow up to the stem.
5. Wrong tree for the soil.
6. A tree that will outgrow its space.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best tree to plant in Scotland?
The one that suits your soil, drainage, exposure and space. Rowan, hawthorn, holly, bird cherry, downy birch, alder, Scots pine and sessile oak are dependable native choices across most of Scotland.
What is the best tree for a small garden in Scotland?
Rowan, crab apple, hawthorn, hazel, serviceberry and Swedish whitebeam. Rowan and whitebeams need free-draining soil; on heavy clay, choose hawthorn or a multi-stem birch.
Which trees grow in wet or clay soil in Scotland?
Alder and bay willow tolerate prolonged waterlogging; downy birch and bird cherry are moderately tolerant. Avoid rowan, whitebeam and wild cherry.
What is the fastest-growing native tree in Scotland?
Willows, aspen, birches and alder. Goat willow, bay willow and aspen are fast growing and easy to establish.
When should I plant trees in Scotland?
November to March, while trees are dormant.
Which trees are best for wildlife in Scotland?
Oak species and Salix (Willow) species, especially Goat Willow - one big, one small, both hands down winners for wildlife!
Need advice on tree planting in Scotland?
I am a Chartered Horticulturist and Master of Horticulture (RHS) with over 20 years’ experience of planting trees across Scotland. Tom Angel Studio advises on tree selection, planting and biodiversity for gardens, estates and development sites in Glasgow, Edinburgh and the central belt. During the winter we supply and plant hedges all across Glasgow. Check out our testimonials page to read the reviews from some of our many happy customers.
If you are looking for tree planting advice in Glasgow, Edinburgh or anywhere across the central belt, give Tom a call on 0141 432 1141 or email on tom@tomangel.co.uk