The best plants for a Scottish garden: a Chartered Horticulturist’s guide

The short answer

The best plants for a Scottish garden are the ones that cope with wet winters, wind and a shorter, cooler growing season. The list below are some plants and trees that I have observed to be really reliable in Scottish gardens: plants that are reliable, look good for a long season and do something for wildlife. It mixes natives with well-behaved garden plants, because a good planting scheme is about the right plant in the right place, not where a plant comes from.

What makes a Scottish garden different?

•             Rain. The west is much wetter than the east. Many plants survive cold but rot in cold, wet soil.

•             Wind. Exposure scorches leaves and snaps tall stems. Shelter makes a big difference.

•             Soil. Much of Scotland, especially the west, has acid soil, which suits camellias and acers. Check your pH before buying.

•             Season. Spring arrives later and summers are cooler, so choose plants that perform without baking heat.

Trees

•             Crab apple (Malus). Spring blossom, autumn fruit for birds, and small enough for most gardens.

•             Cherry plum (Prunus cerasifera). One of the earliest blossoms of the year, a lifeline for early bees.

•             Deciduous magnolias. A spectacular spring show. Plant out of frost pockets and morning sun to protect the flowers.

•             Japanese acers. Only on acid soil and in a sheltered spot. They don’t like wind!

•             Oak and Scots pine, if you have the space. Long-lived, hugely valuable for wildlife, and a legacy for the next generation.

Shrubs

•             Abelia. Long flowering into autumn, they’re a bit unruly-looking but worth it for the flowers.

•             Camellia x williamsii. Choose this over Camellia japonica. Acid soil only.

•             Dogwood (Cornus sanguinea). Glowing winter stems; cut back hard in early spring for the best colour.

•             Guelder rose (Viburnum opulus). Native, with white spring flowers and red berries.

•             Spindle (Euonymus europaeus). Native, with startling pink and orange autumn fruit.

•             Winged spindle (Euonymus alatus). Some of the best autumn colour of any shrub.

•             Hydrangea ‘Limelight’ (Hydrangea paniculata). Flowers reliably every year and does not depend on soil pH for colour.

•             Pyracantha. Evergreen, with berries that birds love. Ideal trained on a wall or fence, or can also make a narrow evergreen hedge.

•             Roses. Choose varieties bred for disease resistance; blackspot is a constant battle in wet western gardens.

•             Weigela. Tough, easy and generous with early summer flowers.

Perennials for sun

•             Echinops (globe thistle). Steely blue heads, loved by bees. Needs good drainage.

•             Euphorbia. Structure and acid-green colour for much of the year. There is a euphorbia for almost every situation.

•             Hardy geraniums. The workhorses of many planting schemes: long flowering, weed-suppressing and easy.

•             Irises. Siberian irises for moist soil, bearded irises for sunny, well-drained spots.

•             Nepeta (catmint). Months of flower for pollinators. Cut back after the first flush for a second show.

•             Persicaria. Flowers from midsummer until the frosts, and copes with damp soil.

•             Stachys byzantina (lamb’s ears). Silver felted leaves for the front of a sunny, free-draining border.

•             Cirsium rivulare. Crimson thistle heads on tall stems, excellent for bees and happy in moist soil. Tall and striking!

Perennials for shade and part shade

•             Anemone x hybrida ‘Honorine Jobert’. Pure white flowers from late summer into autumn.

•             Aruncus (goat’s beard). Bold creamy plumes for moist, shady corners.

•             Astrantia. Long-lasting, papery flowers in part shade.

•             Digitalis (foxglove). Native, adored by bumblebees, and seeds itself gently.

•             Epimedium. Tough groundcover for dry shade under trees, with delicate spring flowers.

•             Helleborus argutifolius (Corsican hellebore). The most reliable hellebore, with evergreen leaves and green flowers in late winter.

•             Thalictrum (meadow rue). Airy, see-through height in early to midsummer.

Groundcover and grasses

•             Ajuga reptans (bugle). Native, evergreen groundcover with blue spring flowers.

•             Bergenia. Big evergreen leaves and early spring flowers. Almost indestructible.

•             Vinca minor (lesser periwinkle). Evergreen cover for shade. Choose minor, not Vinca major, which is far more rampant.

•             Carex oshimensis. A neat evergreen sedge that brightens shady spots all year.

•             Anemanthele lessoniana. Arching, bronze-tinted foliage that moves in the wind. Prone to self-seeding.

Bulbs and spring wildflowers

•             Camassia. Blue spires in late spring, ideal for naturalising in grass and tolerant of damp ground.

•             Native bluebells (Hyacinthoides non-scripta). Buy nursery-grown bulbs of the native species, not Spanish bluebells, which hybridise with our native plants.

•             Primrose and cowslip (Primula vulgaris and P. veris). Native spring flowers; primroses for light shade, cowslips for sunny grass.

Questions about redesigning or planting up a garden

When is the best time for planting up gardens in Scotland?

Autumn and spring are both good, but you can plant through much the year as long as the ground is not frozen. We plant herbaceous, shrubs and grasses from April to November, and trees, rootball shrubs and hedges from December to March.

Can an existing border be redesigned without starting from scratch?

Yes. Most gardens that I visit have many plants worth keeping. A redesign usually means lifting and dividing the good plants, removing the poor performers and tackling perennial weeds, then replanting around a clearer structure.

How long does a newly planted planting scheme take to look established?

Expect it to look good in its first summer and to fill out properly by its second or third, and many plants are at maturity around year five. Obviously shrubs and trees take longer to reach their maximum size. Planting more densely gives a quicker result and less bare soil for weeds.

What are the best low-maintenance plants for a Scottish garden?

Hardy Geraniums, Bergenia, Epimedium, Euphorbia, Persicaria and Nepeta all give a long season for very little work. Evergreen groundcover such as Ajuga and Vinca minor reduce weeding.

What should I plant in a shady, damp Scottish garden?

Aruncus, Astrantia, Ajuga, Foxgloves, Guelder rose and Liriope are all reliable in moist shade or part shade.

How do I make my garden better for wildlife?

Plant for a long flowering season, from Cherry Plum and Hellebores in late winter to Japanese Anemones in autumn. Include berrying shrubs such as Guelder rose, Spindle and Pyracantha, and leave seed heads standing over winter.

Do I need a garden designer to replant my borders?

Not always, but a designer with good horticultural knowledge can save you costly mistakes: the wrong plant for the soil, poor structure, or a border that looks good for six weeks and dull for the rest of the year.

I am a Chartered Horticulturist and Master of Horticulture (RHS) with over 20 years’ experience of designing, planting and maintaining gardens all across Scotland. Check out our testimonials page to read the reviews from some of our many happy customers.

If you are looking for planting advice in Glasgow, Edinburgh or anywhere across the central belt, give Tom a call on 0141 432 1141 or email on tom@tomangel.co.uk

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Apple tree pruning: a Chartered Horticulturist’s guide